Ancient Civ Lesson

Yesterday Blayne & I along with our friend Sarah went out to the Burren which is a very rocky region west of here, not to far from the Cliffs of Moher. This is the Poulnabrone Dolmen. It's a tomb that was built around 4500 BC. It's stinking old! It's amazing to stand there and think of the people who lived there 6500 years ago and built the rock houses over their dead. It really is a strange and moving thing to see in this barren land-evidence of life here from so long ago. That is by far the oldest bit of human history I have ever seen...it's older than the pyramids. Then we went to a concert in Ennis that was one of the most bizarre cultural experiences I've ever had. I don't even know how to describe it, except to say that we were surely the only non-Irish in the crowd and I've never before heard a tall, clean cut fellow who looked like a rugby player pick up a guitar and sing in an Irish sort of choppy gruff pub style voice (but complete with intricate sean nos ornamentation) protest songs with a strong raggae influence. It was an experience that I would need to learn many more words in the English language to attempt to describe.

Well, we have an update on our church hunt. The church we went to this morning, Mallow Street Christian Fellowship is the most promising yet. There were about 80 people crammed into a small hall in downtown Limerick. We don't know yet about how we'll feel about the teaching part because this morning they had a special presentation from the man who owns the local christian bookstore, but in spite of older praise songs being the main music the service was promising. they did have a time where they opened the meeting for people to pray, share scripture, pick songs to sing, so it had a small meeting sort of vibe without being total chaos. We'll go check it out again next Sunday...maybe unless we're in Sligo next weekend. Turns out Halloween is a bank holiday in Ireland so Blayne won't have to do anything on Monday and he already has every Friday free, so we may head up to Sligo and Donegal.

I found out this past Saturday as we sat and chatted with folks at the market that it's easy & pretty cheap to sign up for Irish classes. I don't really expect to learn to speak it, but I'd like to be able to read it and pronounce it properly. All the history books I'm reading I come to a name like Niamh (which is one of the few I know - its pronounced nee-uhv) But there are so many that I don't know how to say and phoenetics don't come close to working in the Irish language, and also it'd be fun to learn to sing some songs in Irish.

We are making lots of friends. Life is just so very different here. We don't always have people over, since we have a car we're always the ones going somewhere, which is fine. Though, I am having some friends over for tea & chocolate chip cookies soon. My fabulous sister sent me 4 big bags of chocolate chips (Rosemary warned me you couldn't get them here and I still couldn't believe it). I made a batch for just Blayne & I and I ate almost 2 dozen cookies in 2 days. So, I've vowed that I'll only make them when I have more help in eating them. I just start craving comforts from home. All the subtle differences begin to add up and you just want to have something familiar. But 20 cookies in 2 days is taking that a bit far. I feel this post is extra rambly. It's a bit late, and my mind is muddled, but I wanted to share a bit. I'm enjoying Ireland very much and missing home very much at the same time. Or more acurately, I'm missing the people who make home home for me. Love you all lots!

An "Early" Night

This is the Rock of Cashel. A very imposing site atop a hill in the Tipperary country- side. It was the seat of the Kings of Munster for centuries until the early 1100s when the current king decided to donate it to the church. All the ruins you see are different stages of the church in the area. There is a small chapel, a very large cathedral, the castle built for protection after the cathedral, the bishop's quarters & the choisters quarters. It's amazing to imagine what it would have been like to gather for worship on this wind swept hillside in such an imposing edifice. For more cool pics of the rock check out this site:
http://www.all-ireland.com/attractions/r/rock-of-cashel.htm

This is the interior of the chapel which was built in 1169, it's very small, as you can see, and is famous for the romanesque arches and the carved faces in the arches shown in the closeup pic. I went here on Wednesday because my new friend Sarah had the afternoon free and she's leaving back to the states on Monday so we've been trying to see as much countryside as we can.

As far as what I'm doing with myself, the history study continues, but I'm still just reading surveys of large chunks of time in the hope of contextualizing the history that I'm getting to see. I'm trying to educate myself in several things that interest me and there've been some fun strides in that pursuit this past week. On Tuesday night we went to Dolan's (a pub in town where Blayne plays in the Tuesday night session with local musicians) early for the set dancing lessons. It's Irish folk dancing for couples that's sort of like square dancing. It's loads of fun to learn there; the people are so very friendly and it's great for me to be able to put movement to this music that so inspires movement! Another thing along that line is that Becky, another new friend, has taken step dance (that's the riverdance kind of thing) for 3 years and is willing to teach me and a few other folks how to do it. We had our first class today and it was great! I wasn't sure if I was going to find someone willing to teach me for free. We've all just said we'll take turn buying her pints when we all go out together as her payment.

Oh, one other highlight of this week was the Wednesday night session at the pub at Castletroy Park Hotel. This is a session started up by some folks in the program with Blayne, which is fun simply because they're all amazing musicians and they're very friendly and open. This past Wednesday there was a kick-off for a Trad Festival coming up soon and some VIPs in the Irish music world were around. So, part way through the session we see Paddy Maloney (the founder & front man for the Cheiftans) in the pub. He sort of retreated to a corner with his pint and a newspaper at first. Then as the evening progressed he got closer to the action and pulled out his whistle and started to play with the session. He said it's been ages since he'd just been at a session and he was loving it. So, that was really amazing for everyone there to be a part of.

I call this an early night because it's Friday and we were home before 1am. I'm wrapping this up and it's 1:30, so now I think I'll get to bed for an "early" start on the market tomorrow. Since we've never gotten there before 11:30am, early is a very relatvie term. The schedule is wacky, but it suits me just fine. Good night to you all. Lots of love from Ireland to wherever you are!

Our First Month

So hard to believe we've been here a month already. It's now 7 months & 27 days until we return home. This ruin is along the river walk by the university...there are some old stairs that go up inside, and since I saw some people on the top of it the other day, I'm determined to climb up there some time. It's so crazy how history is just around every corner that the locals hardly take note of it.

This is Lough (say lock) Derg just west of Killaloe. I walked out to the graves of the lienstermen the other day. The sun was shining so I took off in the car after I dropped Blayne off and drove onto some lovely single lane roads with grass in the middle that were off the map and eventually made it to my destination. It was (as you can see) absolutely gorgeous! Then I came home and read about the leinstermen & why they were buried there and such. History is around every corner, but as i mentioned before they don't make all of it very accessible. So, if you want to know more about that just ask me. I will tell you that after reading that history I had strange dreams. Blayne said I woke him up talking in my sleep :0). Those Irish & Vikings were some crazy folks, but I guess not much more so than others around 1000 AD.

I had to take this picture, because I miss my dog so much and I was driving along after my walk to the graves and there on the wall on the side of the road is this cute dog. There are so many small dogs around here. On a recent hike up into the Galtee Mountains from the Glen of Aherlow we met a woman with three sheep dogs. Have I mentioned that I MISS DARCY DOG? :0) Though, Jen I appreciate the updates.

We've had so many late nights with so many amazing people. The other day during the market outside a coffee shop Blayne played with a LEGEND in Irish music who's been an instrumental part of the scene since the 1960s. And he played an incredible flute duet in Ennis the other night at Paddy Quinn's Pub. In the program itself there are at least 3 players that are rediculously amazing musicians already. On last Wednesday night we hung out with Christy Lehey (one of the best button accordian players in Ireland) and his roommate Owen (no slouch himself) and they wanted to hear US play "old time" music. It is a surreal life we are living. While I miss home and my dear friends & family VERY MUCH I am able to remind myself that I have an incredible opportunity to take advantage of here in this foreign land.

I've been learning a bit of Irish history. I think that's one way that I'll be spending my time. I joined the city library and checked out some books and I'm researching places online too. The heritage is so rich and its depth in recorded history is vast, not to mention all the prehistoric artifacts and ruins that can be discovered. In short, I'm going to do my best to make the most of my time here by learning enough to bore you all with stories of Irish history-except maybe Libby & Tim since they have a higher tolerance for that sort of thing. :0)

Well, it's late and after a glass of wine with new friends at a local pub I am very tired. I deeply wish I could share this more with all of you. Let me assert (and I really mean this) If you can come and visit us, DO please. Day trips from here only cost gas & we can picnic lunch. You can see so many amazing things within a 2 hour drive from Limerick. And how often do you get an offer of free accommodations in Ireland? Those of you that are planning a visit, we can't wait to see you. And if you're considering....go for it, just let me know when you want to come. Love you all!

Fierce & Beautiful

Well, Saturday it was sunny, as in mostly sunny. After we went to the market Blayne needed to practice and I was inspired to get out into the countryside. So, I set off to the spectacular Cliffs of Moher (sounds like mower) since the last time we were there is was cloudy, cold & so windy I didn't want to venture far. I wanted to go back and do more exploring.

Since I'm limited to five pictures per post, I tried to pick the ones that told the story best. I hiked along the top of the cliffs to the north of the touristy area where it's walled off and everyone snaps their photos & goes on their way. But there is a well worn path for the more adventurous just past the wall. I walked to the north and saw people out on a large ledge and went there and laid on my belly, scooted to the edge & just peeked my head over. The wind coming up the 650 foot cliff was blasting! This picture is of the water puddled at the cliff top instead of dripping down, it's being blown straight up. And the next picture is one that I took while looking down the cliff edge to the water. The other folks on the cliff with me were hollering as they hung their heads over. I was just grinning...thinking how incredible it would be to rappel down this face on a calm day. It was inspiring and terrifying all at the same time. I was thinking how my mom would be FREAKING out if she saw me :0)


Looking from the top of cliffs, the first light colored layer of stone is the one (you can sort of see it in the near part of the pictures) that I was laying on and looking out over the sea.

I had optimistically brought my journal, but the wind gusts discouraged my using it. It was not a time for peaceful reflection, while the cliffs were beautiful, there were too fierce and dangerous to inspire less than awe and wonder.

So, this is the very windblown me after an hour and a half out on the cliffs. It was a stunning day, and I'm so glad I was able to be out there. Grey days continue to abound, though tomorrow is suppposed to be sunny, and Blayne has the day off. Oh, check out his blog...he's updated it. Right now he's having classes with Kevin Crawford...a ninja flute player. And I just temporarily gave up housecleaning to update my blog. I've been a bit under the weather the past two days, so sorry It's been a bit since I've posted. I do think of you often even as I make new friends here.

One more thing...I've been spending time getting ready for a European trip with my parents. They're coming in November, and other than travelling around Ireland for a bit, I just bought our tickets to go to Paris, Geneva, Rome & London. I'm VERY excited about it. More on that later! Love you all!

A Fine Day

Here's making up for the pictures that I've not put up. I went to town today. The sun peaked out for a bit today which brightened my spirits. I don't realize how much I miss the sun until it shows up after being obscured by clouds for more than 3 days. This is King John's Castle in downtown Limerick.

This is the start of my walk along the river Shannon. There's so many swans and ducks & and I think I rambled on in a previous post how beautiful it is out there. So, now you can see some for yourself. When the sun in shining on the hills in the distance it's over- whelming how bright GREEN it is. "Verdant meadows, woodlands pleasant" comes to mind from a madrigal I learned in high school.

I'm sitting on the wall of the church ruin here looking out across the graveyard, which amazingly is still in use. There are a couple of recent tombstones and the earliest one that I could read was from the early 1700s. It's ideal for reflection. I've always liked to walk and reflect in graveyards. To think of how precious and brief life is, to read the inscriptions and think of the people who lived, laughed, wept, struggled and loved who are now gone. And to think of what is to come. There was an inscription on a tombstone in a churchyard in Williamsburg, VA that always moved me deeply. I'll see if I can't find it and share it with you.

Well, I'm going to see Pride & Prejudice tonight with three girls that are all masters students at UL. One is in Blayne's program and the others are doing the ethnomusicology masters. I'll let you know how it goes. Though one of the girls only wants to go to make fun of Kiera Knightly, and I want to give it a chance. I just can't imagine that it will hold a candle to the A&E/BBC one. Alright, enough rambling for now. Blayne and I are going for a walk. Lots of Love!

New Friends & A Place for Reflection

Well, I know it's terrible that I'm not posting pics this time, but I've been too busy doing things to remember the camera. I promise improvement in that department. Well, this Friday night I'm going out to see Pride & Prejudice with Norah (one of Blayne's classmates) and her roomate Sarah (a Master's student in Ethomusicology). They are both very friendly and very fun to talk to. They are of course, much busier than I am, since they have to study. But, hopefully we'll still get to be good friends. It is so very strange that we've been here for two weeks and we've spent alot of time with new people, but we haven't had anyone over to our flat yet. Given that our house has always been central to social events it's so wierd. I'm not sure how I feel about that, except right now it just feels strange. We mostly meet people at pubs for music, oh and on Sunday afternoon after we visited church #2-a local presbyterian and methodist church (more about that in a sec) we went with our friend Mary to Bunratty folk park for the wheat threshing day. It's sort of like Centennial Village in Greeley except MUCH older things, including a 15th century castle, a manor house built in 1805, and other buildings, some of which were relocated to the site for display. It was a delight :0)

As for the church, it really had some lovely parts in the liturgy, some elements presbyterian, some methodist in tradition. we will keep on searching as the Gospel was somewhat lacking in the teaching and there were some rather awkward moments in the music. We'll keep you posted as we continue to search for a church where we'll feel at home.

On my last post I said I was going out for a ramble on the River Shannon, and I found such a wonderful spot. On the north west side of the city you can pull off by the river and walk along for about a half mile to an old church ruin with a grave yard around it. There are cows & sheep grazing nearby, the river is full of geese & swans and the rolling hills in the distance are such a vibrant green when it's a clear day (which it was for the time i was there). I was kicking myself for not bringing the camera, but I will back out there soon for more reflection and journaling time, and I promise I'll take pictures of it.

We're getting ready to head off to a session at Dolan's tonight here in town. Blayne recorded the session there last week and learned all 20 or so tunes on it that he didn't know so that he could play tonight. Have I mentioned that he is going to be a flute ROCK STAR by the time we get back. He is loving things musically here. So, goodnight & God bless. Love you all!